Driving to Sumatra would definitely be pretty rough, because it's an island (1). But driving here in Sumatra is also pretty dangerous. Don't ever let anyone tell you otherwise. It's so dangerous, in fact, that it's hard to express exactly how dangerous it is without the use of expletives. Between the condition of the roads and the strange driving habits, you are definitely taking your life in your hands every time you get behind the wheel.
In order to give you an idea of what you can expect to experience whilst motoring across this beautiful island, I've included a selection of articles that have appeared OVER THE PAST WEEK AND A HALF in two of the regional papers I subscribe to, the Padang Ekspres and the Jambi Independent. If you are a student of the Indonesian, this post serves the dual function of advising you on road hazards as well as providing you with valuable reading practice! Some of the stories are actually quite interesting. For those of you that can't read Indonesian, you should be able to get the gist of the story from the computer graphics. Sometimes it's more fun to make up your own narrative. Enjoy!
Frequently I hear other foreigners talking about their driving experiences. "It's different, but there's a logical flow to the traffic", they claim. "Once you get the feel for it, you'll be fine", they'll assure you. Nothing could be further from the truth. While there does seem to be a certain chaotic order, it's the kind of chaotic order that comes from everyone breaking long-established driving canons at the same time. Many foreigners get lulled into a false sense of security, and as a consequence many foreigners end up in the hospital.
People will tell you that you don't need to wear a seat belt or helmet if you are riding pillion on a motorcycle. Lots of folks go without helmets! You'll be fine! Again, don't believe it. Wear a helmet, even if it makes you feel like a dork. It's compulsory in many places in Indonesia, at least for the driver. If you don't believe me, just look what happened to the unhelmeted unfortunates in the pictures!
Yes, between the potholes, refusal to check behind when executing a left or u-turn, large piles of rocks/sand/cement on the side of the road, 8-year-olds driving stepthroughs, and packs of goats, cows, ducks and dogs crossing the road, you've got a lot to contend with. As you can see from the picture above, there's even the occasionally banditry (though I have never actually heard of another instance like this). You have to keep your wits about you at all times and be aware of what is happening all around you.
There doesn't seem to be any sort of safety training here in Sungai Penuh, and judging from the number of kids on the road there isn't much law enforcement. My own empirical studies confirm this; I went into the traffic police post in "downtown" Sungai Penuh the other day to ask for directions, and all the traffic cops were busy playing PlayStation.
Lastly, I leave you with a section from the back page of yesterday's Independent. As you can see, there are three stories right in a line. I was amazed at this trifecta of traffic trouble, and I think you will be too. The first story to the left says "Avoiding a hole, truck enters ravine" (2). The second says "Truck falls on two people". The third, unrelated story indicates that the body of a female accident victim was identified. If the six preceding incidents didn't convince you, maybe this macabre jackpot of mortal motoring mayhem will.
NOTES
(1) Like the Bahamas.
(2) This is a clear example of a failure to identify the lesser of two evils.
I have heard the same things about other places around Southeast Asia. My girldfriend's family is originally from Thailand and they have told me the same stories. I think the lack of law enforcement on the roads is a very big problem. When the traffic police officers are too busy playing Playstation, they set a standard that it is OK to not care about other people. I have also heard that if you commit a crime all you have to do is to pay the authorities to not go to jail. As long as these countries are corrupt the traffic situation will continue being bad.
ReplyDeleteThis post is AWESOME, in its own crazy way. I love the pictures that you include from the newspapers, makes it so much cooler. I wish you had taken a picture of the traffic patrol officers and posted that too, I would have loved to see their faces. I’ve never driven in another country before and truthfully your blog is not really making me want to try. Did they seriously just put a picture of 3 dead people in the newspaper? Talk about unfiltered news. Be safe out there man and watch out for them bandits.
ReplyDeleteI can only imagine what it is like driving there in Sumatra. I don't think I would want to try. I have driven a scooter around in the Bahamas, and I thought that was pretty rough. First of all, people drive on the other side of the road. Second, I had never driven a scooter or motorcycle prior to that trip. Without any experience, I took to the streets with two of my other friends on scooters. I thought driving on the other side of the road would be really difficult to get used to, but it wasn't. I definitely had more problems with the local drivers of the Bahamas. The streets are not very kept up, the roads are narrow and crowded, and the drivers are just extremely impatient and aggressive. I am so glad that I was driving second in line, with one friend leading the way, and one friend behind me watching my back. At one point, the car behind my friend in the back just rammed into his scooter and sent him flying off the road. He was okay, but the bike had been flipped and all the gas spilled out. Do you have any interesting personal experiences driving around in Southeast Asia? How DO you get around? And if I were to visit, what would be the safest way to get around in a place like this?
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